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Climbing Mont Blanc

Hey, i'm wanting to climb mont blanc this summer. Has anyone done it before and do they have any tips? Who did they go with and was it expensive? What sort of experience did you need? i've never been ice climbing but have regularly climbed mountains around the world and am in relatively good shape, do you think that's enough?


Cheers


Adam

The text you are quoting:

Hey, i'm wanting to climb mont blanc this summer. Has anyone done it before and do they have any tips? Who did they go with and was it expensive? What sort of experience did you need? i've never been ice climbing but have regularly climbed mountains around the world and am in relatively good shape, do you think that's enough?


Cheers


Adam


adam shawApr 13, 2010 @ 15:51
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 1

Hi Adam,


I did it in 2003 with some guides from the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix.


Have a look at


http://www.chamonix-guides.com/pages_stat_en/mt-blanc_en.html


All the info is there.


Good luck! Patrick

The text you are quoting:

Hi Adam,


I did it in 2003 with some guides from the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix.


Have a look at


http://www.chamonix-guides.com/pages_stat_en/mt-blanc_en.html


All the info is there.


Good luck! Patrick


Patrick, Apr 13, 2010 @ 16:22
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 2

Adam, I would like to do it too at some point, this summer or next. Can you keep me in the loop? It may be more motivating to has a small team getting ready together : )


Speak soon


g


 

The text you are quoting:

Adam, I would like to do it too at some point, this summer or next. Can you keep me in the loop? It may be more motivating to has a small team getting ready together : )


Speak soon


g


 


Georges Lambert, Apr 29, 2010 @ 14:24
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 3

In spite of all the enthousiasm of climbing the Mt Blanc, it's still a risky thing. A friend of a girl I know went on such a hike (even not to the summit) with a guided group last year. He fell in a crevasse and died.


But I suppose when you go on such a tour, you are aware of the risks.


Anyway, I wish you guys good luck and a great experience in conquering the summit!


 

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In spite of all the enthousiasm of climbing the Mt Blanc, it's still a risky thing. A friend of a girl I know went on such a hike (even not to the summit) with a guided group last year. He fell in a crevasse and died.


But I suppose when you go on such a tour, you are aware of the risks.


Anyway, I wish you guys good luck and a great experience in conquering the summit!


 


just_me, Apr 29, 2010 @ 15:57
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 4

Hi Adams,


If i can give you my opinion, I would say yes that is enough to be really fit, usually...but if you can afford a guide (really expensive i know...but how much does a life cost...?:=)), even better of course.


Climbing Mont blanc can be easy or become very problematic depending on weather conditions. It often snows in chamonix in august above 3500meters...If the snow turns to ice with low temperatures, then it becomes important of course to be comfortable with cramps (crampons)...and a pick...your progression will be more risky. if it is too warm, not cold enough, it can be more tiring and people not fit enough dont make it. Only 30 % roughly  of people who try to climb Mt blanc  make it to the top.


It also besomes tricky when it is windy as you know so the most important thing is to check again and again the weather forecast the days before. do not hesitate to ask for advice at la maison de la montagne or even at PGHM in chamonix...At the tourist office, you might get "wrong" (not professional) advice as it is not their job in the first place..but people often ask them...


I climbed mont blanc 4 times, alone or with friends, no guide... (different routes : via aiguille du midi and refuge du goûter) and lived for 3 years in chamonix. Some very sporty people living in chamonix never made it, despite thei being very fit simply because their body cant take altitude. Up to 4000 meters, most people are ok, above, it is impossible (or dangerous) for some people to continue.


the best way to know that is to try !:=) but if you climbed before, you know it...


In my opinion, the best time is at the end of september/october before the trains/cable cars close in les houches (village). Summer time, it is (too) crowded, therefore less pleasant and more dangerous (stones falling, slow progression etc)


I have always avoided spring time (may, june) too risky in my opinion (warm ...snow falling : "seracs")


Do not hesitate to ask if you wish to. we can also meet for coffee and have a look at the maps. I encourage you to go, it is not technically speaking difficult (normal route). if you are fit, motivated (exhausting indeed) and the weather is nice, it is just ..fun!! :=)


Cheers,


Chris

The text you are quoting:

Hi Adams,


If i can give you my opinion, I would say yes that is enough to be really fit, usually...but if you can afford a guide (really expensive i know...but how much does a life cost...?:=)), even better of course.


Climbing Mont blanc can be easy or become very problematic depending on weather conditions. It often snows in chamonix in august above 3500meters...If the snow turns to ice with low temperatures, then it becomes important of course to be comfortable with cramps (crampons)...and a pick...your progression will be more risky. if it is too warm, not cold enough, it can be more tiring and people not fit enough dont make it. Only 30 % roughly  of people who try to climb Mt blanc  make it to the top.


It also besomes tricky when it is windy as you know so the most important thing is to check again and again the weather forecast the days before. do not hesitate to ask for advice at la maison de la montagne or even at PGHM in chamonix...At the tourist office, you might get "wrong" (not professional) advice as it is not their job in the first place..but people often ask them...


I climbed mont blanc 4 times, alone or with friends, no guide... (different routes : via aiguille du midi and refuge du goûter) and lived for 3 years in chamonix. Some very sporty people living in chamonix never made it, despite thei being very fit simply because their body cant take altitude. Up to 4000 meters, most people are ok, above, it is impossible (or dangerous) for some people to continue.


the best way to know that is to try !:=) but if you climbed before, you know it...


In my opinion, the best time is at the end of september/october before the trains/cable cars close in les houches (village). Summer time, it is (too) crowded, therefore less pleasant and more dangerous (stones falling, slow progression etc)


I have always avoided spring time (may, june) too risky in my opinion (warm ...snow falling : "seracs")


Do not hesitate to ask if you wish to. we can also meet for coffee and have a look at the maps. I encourage you to go, it is not technically speaking difficult (normal route). if you are fit, motivated (exhausting indeed) and the weather is nice, it is just ..fun!! :=)


Cheers,


Chris


Chris CHRIS, May 13, 2010 @ 00:26
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 5

Jan 1, 70 01:00

I am also very interested in climbing Mont Blanc in the next few months. I've created a group in the groups section for Geneva Rock Climbers (and Boulderers) - I encourage all interested to join!


Now that we seem to have a motivated group of people looking to do this, perhaps we could organize a couple of smaller local test climbs or bouldering excursions for the relatively inexperienced (i.e. ME) to gain some cliff time before we work our way to the more serious climbs? I'm sure we could get a group together for a weekend climb in the local area some time. I think it would be a great opportunity for all, especially those training for a potential Mont Blanc climb.  


Any takers?

The text you are quoting:

I am also very interested in climbing Mont Blanc in the next few months. I've created a group in the groups section for Geneva Rock Climbers (and Boulderers) - I encourage all interested to join!


Now that we seem to have a motivated group of people looking to do this, perhaps we could organize a couple of smaller local test climbs or bouldering excursions for the relatively inexperienced (i.e. ME) to gain some cliff time before we work our way to the more serious climbs? I'm sure we could get a group together for a weekend climb in the local area some time. I think it would be a great opportunity for all, especially those training for a potential Mont Blanc climb.  


Any takers?


TheMoney, May 18, 2010 @ 15:29
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 6

For Mt Blanc I would highly recommend a guide unless you are an experienced and confident climber at altitudes above 4000m.  Even on the "easy" route there is one tricky spot which is infamous for causing the most climbing accidents in the area (due to rock fall).  Not sure if the statistic is true, but there's definitely an active rock fall.


Also, it's a 2 day climb with a night in a hut for all but the extremely fit.  I think the average guiding rate is about EUR 325 per day so that's EUR 650, but the typically guide ratio is 1 guide for 2 clients so you might be able to do it for under EUR 500 per person including hut fees, lift passes, ,etc.  Keep in mind though most guides will only take you if they are comfortable with your fitness and ability.  And they will turn around at any point if they aren't convinced!


When more of the snow clears in June I recommend you hike up to the Albert Premiere hut from the bottom of the La Tour lifts to get a glimpse of what you are getting into.  It's a straight forward hike and decent workout if you don't take the lifts.  It takes you above 2000m to the beginning of one of the glaciers where you'll typically see the Mt Blanc courses practicing their ice climbing.

The text you are quoting:

For Mt Blanc I would highly recommend a guide unless you are an experienced and confident climber at altitudes above 4000m.  Even on the "easy" route there is one tricky spot which is infamous for causing the most climbing accidents in the area (due to rock fall).  Not sure if the statistic is true, but there's definitely an active rock fall.


Also, it's a 2 day climb with a night in a hut for all but the extremely fit.  I think the average guiding rate is about EUR 325 per day so that's EUR 650, but the typically guide ratio is 1 guide for 2 clients so you might be able to do it for under EUR 500 per person including hut fees, lift passes, ,etc.  Keep in mind though most guides will only take you if they are comfortable with your fitness and ability.  And they will turn around at any point if they aren't convinced!


When more of the snow clears in June I recommend you hike up to the Albert Premiere hut from the bottom of the La Tour lifts to get a glimpse of what you are getting into.  It's a straight forward hike and decent workout if you don't take the lifts.  It takes you above 2000m to the beginning of one of the glaciers where you'll typically see the Mt Blanc courses practicing their ice climbing.


L&T S, May 19, 2010 @ 20:26
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 7

Hey you all,


I am game for getting a small group together to train and aim for the Mont Blanc. Please do keep me in the loop should this project get off the ground !!


Cheers


Fred

The text you are quoting:

Hey you all,


I am game for getting a small group together to train and aim for the Mont Blanc. Please do keep me in the loop should this project get off the ground !!


Cheers


Fred


frederic c, May 19, 2010 @ 22:05
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 8

Hey all, just wanted to let you know I got the Rock Climbing group up and running. All are welcome to join. Let's get some activities organized!


http://www.glocals.com/groups/geneva/geneva-rock-climbing-group.htm


 

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Hey all, just wanted to let you know I got the Rock Climbing group up and running. All are welcome to join. Let's get some activities organized!


http://www.glocals.com/groups/geneva/geneva-rock-climbing-group.htm


 


TheMoney, May 30, 2010 @ 10:34
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Post 9

hi


 


climbing mont blanc sound like a dream?


 


it is possible to do it with a guide without a climbing experience?


 


 

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hi


 


climbing mont blanc sound like a dream?


 


it is possible to do it with a guide without a climbing experience?


 


 


110V, Jun 20, 2010 @ 10:38
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 10

Hey there,


I would be very interested in doing the Mont Blanc in September or early October (although I went on a 4 day solo hike before in October and got into a snow storm - ahem).  I've joined the rock climbing group but perhaps somebody should set up a hiking/trekking group too?  :-) Please do include me in any plans that might be hatching. A smaller group would be better I guess and I personally would like to take a guide and split costs. I'd love a proper challenge to plan for. Sounds like Chris has excellent tips too.


Alison

The text you are quoting:

Hey there,


I would be very interested in doing the Mont Blanc in September or early October (although I went on a 4 day solo hike before in October and got into a snow storm - ahem).  I've joined the rock climbing group but perhaps somebody should set up a hiking/trekking group too?  :-) Please do include me in any plans that might be hatching. A smaller group would be better I guess and I personally would like to take a guide and split costs. I'd love a proper challenge to plan for. Sounds like Chris has excellent tips too.


Alison


Alison O, Jun 20, 2010 @ 15:12
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 11

Hey everyone, first of all thanks to everyone for replying to this thread, its great to know that so many people are interested in it!


I've had a bit of a setback, as in i've broken my hand and am in a cast until the end of next month, so i think a climb this year is a bit unrealistic. But, does anyone think its a good idea to meet over the summer, maybe work out who wants to do what, get something decided, train and conquer this baby early next year when the season starts? Let me know if anyone's interested and i'll work out a good time to meet.


 


cheers


 


adam

The text you are quoting:

Hey everyone, first of all thanks to everyone for replying to this thread, its great to know that so many people are interested in it!


I've had a bit of a setback, as in i've broken my hand and am in a cast until the end of next month, so i think a climb this year is a bit unrealistic. But, does anyone think its a good idea to meet over the summer, maybe work out who wants to do what, get something decided, train and conquer this baby early next year when the season starts? Let me know if anyone's interested and i'll work out a good time to meet.


 


cheers


 


adam


adam shaw, Jun 21, 2010 @ 23:52
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 12

I climbed the MB and 3 other 4000m peaks with the same guide company and had a great time. It may not make sense to try and save money on a serious mountain like the MB. The FR Mtn police website says less than 33% of unguided climbers reach the summit, but nearly 80% with guides do. For sure I wouldn’t have made my summits without a guide knowing the routes in the dark, what gear to use and leave behind, when to head up or turn around as the barometer /weather started to change. I recommend you bite the bullet and get a guide and increase the chance of a successful climb or choose another goal. The MB is not technical but it’s a big mtn with big mtn weather and conditions (8 people died on MB in 2001, the year I climbed it). I used these guides:  www.guidesource.com. They guide peaks like Everest too, and they are really smart people. Rental gear: shouldn't cost too much, & sometimes its furnished for you. If your going to buy anything make it boots, but get an expert's advice first, they are expensive.


Steve


 

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I climbed the MB and 3 other 4000m peaks with the same guide company and had a great time. It may not make sense to try and save money on a serious mountain like the MB. The FR Mtn police website says less than 33% of unguided climbers reach the summit, but nearly 80% with guides do. For sure I wouldn’t have made my summits without a guide knowing the routes in the dark, what gear to use and leave behind, when to head up or turn around as the barometer /weather started to change. I recommend you bite the bullet and get a guide and increase the chance of a successful climb or choose another goal. The MB is not technical but it’s a big mtn with big mtn weather and conditions (8 people died on MB in 2001, the year I climbed it). I used these guides:  www.guidesource.com. They guide peaks like Everest too, and they are really smart people. Rental gear: shouldn't cost too much, & sometimes its furnished for you. If your going to buy anything make it boots, but get an expert's advice first, they are expensive.


Steve


 


Steve M, Jun 25, 2010 @ 11:21
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 13

Hello,


I am a journalist working for the programme Temps Présent on Suisse TV Channel RTS.  We are currently preparing a documentary film on the Mont Blanc and how it is getting more accessible for young mountaineers/ a new generation of adventurers (as opposed to only very experienced climbers). 


I know that this discussion dates back to 2010 but I was just wondering if anybody amongst hasn't gone up the Mont Blanc just yet but it planning on doing it this year...?


Or would you know someone who has such plans?


And in that case, would you be willing to participate in our project?


We are looking for a group of young mountaineers we could go along with during their preparations and the ascension.


Please do feel free to get in touch if you need more information: [email protected]


I would be very pleased to hear from you.


Best wishes,


Lisa

The text you are quoting:

Hello,


I am a journalist working for the programme Temps Présent on Suisse TV Channel RTS.  We are currently preparing a documentary film on the Mont Blanc and how it is getting more accessible for young mountaineers/ a new generation of adventurers (as opposed to only very experienced climbers). 


I know that this discussion dates back to 2010 but I was just wondering if anybody amongst hasn't gone up the Mont Blanc just yet but it planning on doing it this year...?


Or would you know someone who has such plans?


And in that case, would you be willing to participate in our project?


We are looking for a group of young mountaineers we could go along with during their preparations and the ascension.


Please do feel free to get in touch if you need more information: [email protected]


I would be very pleased to hear from you.


Best wishes,


Lisa


Lisa L, Jun 17, 2013 @ 17:54
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 14

Hello,

I am a journalist working for the programme Temps Présent on Suisse TV Channel RTS.  We are currently preparing a documentary film on the Mont Blanc and how it is getting more accessible for young mountaineers/ a new generation of adventurers (as opposed to only very experienced climbers). 

I know that this discussion dates back to 2010 but I was just wondering if anybody amongst hasn't gone up the Mont Blanc just yet but it planning on doing it this year...?

Or would you know someone who has such plans?

And in that case, would you be willing to participate in our project?

We are looking for a group of young mountaineers we could go along with during their preparations and the ascension.

Please do feel free to get in touch if you need more information: [email protected]

I would be very pleased to hear from you.

Best wishes,

Lisa


Jun 17, 13 17:54

If no one replies, it probably means they tied and never came back Cool

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If no one replies, it probably means they tied and never came back Cool


JR M, Jun 17, 2013 @ 18:10
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 15

Maybe they decided that it would be more sensible to get some experience first on a less serious mountain!


 

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Maybe they decided that it would be more sensible to get some experience first on a less serious mountain!


 


Richard H, Jun 28, 2013 @ 09:03
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 16

Should you  not be contacting clubs eg CAS, CAF or the many climbing clubs in Geneva rather than just random individuals.  There are many way up Mont Blanc, some easy, some difficult. 


Another source of information is the following blog where you could post your question


http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums


I have read several of the early publications documenting the early ascents and accidents on Mt Blanc from 1786 to 1910 and I am sure the same spirit of adventure exists and even at that time it is clear that the biggest risks are taken by those who are pressured for time or, in the case of the early guides, money as they only got their fee if the summit was reached. 


Someone living in Geneva or Chamonix has the luxury of chosing his time to climb.


I think the short answer to your question  is that more people today have the leisure time and the money to engage in this pursuit.  And modern communications mean that less time is needed.


For myself, I have been up just once by the tourist route, unguided in excellent conditions.  An option today to avoid the crowds is to stay at the Tête Rousse Hut.


 

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Should you  not be contacting clubs eg CAS, CAF or the many climbing clubs in Geneva rather than just random individuals.  There are many way up Mont Blanc, some easy, some difficult. 


Another source of information is the following blog where you could post your question


http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums


I have read several of the early publications documenting the early ascents and accidents on Mt Blanc from 1786 to 1910 and I am sure the same spirit of adventure exists and even at that time it is clear that the biggest risks are taken by those who are pressured for time or, in the case of the early guides, money as they only got their fee if the summit was reached. 


Someone living in Geneva or Chamonix has the luxury of chosing his time to climb.


I think the short answer to your question  is that more people today have the leisure time and the money to engage in this pursuit.  And modern communications mean that less time is needed.


For myself, I have been up just once by the tourist route, unguided in excellent conditions.  An option today to avoid the crowds is to stay at the Tête Rousse Hut.


 


Paul E, Jun 28, 2013 @ 10:55
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 17

Should you  not be contacting clubs eg CAS, CAF or the many climbing clubs in Geneva rather than just random individuals.  There are many way up Mont Blanc, some easy, some difficult. 

Another source of information is the following blog where you could post your question

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums

I have read several of the early publications documenting the early ascents and accidents on Mt Blanc from 1786 to 1910 and I am sure the same spirit of adventure exists and even at that time it is clear that the biggest risks are taken by those who are pressured for time or, in the case of the early guides, money as they only got their fee if the summit was reached. 

Someone living in Geneva or Chamonix has the luxury of chosing his time to climb.

I think the short answer to your question  is that more people today have the leisure time and the money to engage in this pursuit.  And modern communications mean that less time is needed.

For myself, I have been up just once by the tourist route, unguided in excellent conditions.  An option today to avoid the crowds is to stay at the Tête Rousse Hut.

 


Jun 28, 13 10:55
Hi Paul, No.

They should contact the Office de Haute Montagne in Chamonix (assuming going from France)

http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/info-montagne-ohm-020039.html
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Hi Paul, No.

They should contact the Office de Haute Montagne in Chamonix (assuming going from France)

http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/info-montagne-ohm-020039.html
Richard H, Jun 28, 2013 @ 11:23
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Post 18

For information - agree but not for finding a group of young adventurers. 

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For information - agree but not for finding a group of young adventurers. 


Paul E, Jun 28, 2013 @ 11:48
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Post 19

Good point, although, CAS seems to cater for under 20s groups or over 50s Groups and they are very serious. Maybe CAF is better.


 

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Good point, although, CAS seems to cater for under 20s groups or over 50s Groups and they are very serious. Maybe CAF is better.


 


Richard H, Jun 28, 2013 @ 13:39
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 20

Just checked the membership list of CAS Geneva for 2011 and 3% members under 20 and 44% 50 and over.  I know that Lausanne and Geneva have active programmes midweek which tend to favour those who no longer work. 


Geneva and Carouge have a very serious programme for 14-22 year olds and every weekend there are hiking and alpinism outings organised.


I do not find the members serious but it is true that we are serious in the mountains as one of our purposes is to introduce people to the alps.


Participation by people in the 20-50 year age groups does reduce because either they are doing their own thing at a higher level than that offered by the CAS or they have family or work commitments which do not permit them to enjoy the playground of the alps


 

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Just checked the membership list of CAS Geneva for 2011 and 3% members under 20 and 44% 50 and over.  I know that Lausanne and Geneva have active programmes midweek which tend to favour those who no longer work. 


Geneva and Carouge have a very serious programme for 14-22 year olds and every weekend there are hiking and alpinism outings organised.


I do not find the members serious but it is true that we are serious in the mountains as one of our purposes is to introduce people to the alps.


Participation by people in the 20-50 year age groups does reduce because either they are doing their own thing at a higher level than that offered by the CAS or they have family or work commitments which do not permit them to enjoy the playground of the alps


 


Paul E, Jun 28, 2013 @ 15:34
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Post 21

The reason why membership is about the same as the general population is that you need to be a member to use the huts.


The point is correct "Participation by people in the 20-50 year age groups does reduce" for activities.(a lot)


Activities for groups of young climbers are excellant, and give a sound basis for the next generation of mountaineers. 


If I see an older group from CAS in the mountains, experience tells me to stay well clear. It is possible to have fun in the mountains while staying safe, but that's not the CAS motto.


 


 


 

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The reason why membership is about the same as the general population is that you need to be a member to use the huts.


The point is correct "Participation by people in the 20-50 year age groups does reduce" for activities.(a lot)


Activities for groups of young climbers are excellant, and give a sound basis for the next generation of mountaineers. 


If I see an older group from CAS in the mountains, experience tells me to stay well clear. It is possible to have fun in the mountains while staying safe, but that's not the CAS motto.


 


 


 


Richard H, Jun 28, 2013 @ 16:59
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 22

hard to tellfrom this long post how the plan is shaping up - but i am interested in going up the mountain this summer.... if anyone is interested in forming a party let me know.... felix


 

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hard to tellfrom this long post how the plan is shaping up - but i am interested in going up the mountain this summer.... if anyone is interested in forming a party let me know.... felix


 


felix b, Jul 5, 2013 @ 22:29
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 23

hard to tellfrom this long post how the plan is shaping up - but i am interested in going up the mountain this summer.... if anyone is interested in forming a party let me know.... felix

 


Jul 5, 13 22:29

Hi Felix,


Are you still planning on going up there?  Do know when exactly? 


Do feel free to get in touch if you'd be interested in being filmed for our project: [email protected]


Thanks,


Lisa

The text you are quoting:

Hi Felix,


Are you still planning on going up there?  Do know when exactly? 


Do feel free to get in touch if you'd be interested in being filmed for our project: [email protected]


Thanks,


Lisa


Lisa L, Jul 15, 2013 @ 18:36
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Post 24

hi went there 3x but storms, did 5k nepal


are y still looking to go?


we can train jura ou bossons?


BR
BC;)









The text you are quoting:

hi went there 3x but storms, did 5k nepal


are y still looking to go?


we can train jura ou bossons?


BR
BC;)


Benjamin C, Nov 7, 2013 @ 23:13
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 25

I climbed Mont Blanc with 3 friends. Basically we were two experienced climbers although my background is more ski mountaineering with two fit but less experienced people.


Some photos here


We took the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi in the evening then slept at the Cosmiques refuges. We started a bit after 3am with the aim of doing a 2:2:2 pace... via the 3 Monts route. 2 Hour for each section with the aim of arriving between 9-10am. It was very very cold on the first Saturday of September but we had stable weather.


At the summit we decided to descend via the Gouter ridge then try and reach the tramway du Mont Blanc. As this had suffered a landslide it was not coming up to the usual terminus and we were not able to reach it before it shut at 16h30 so we had a long walk back to St Gervais where we had left the car, finally arriving around 8pm. A long day and a long walk in some beautiful scenery.


It was a last minute decision to do the route, my friends had only decided to do the route when they saw very stable anticyclonic weather and I was only brought in to beef up the team on the Wednesday - after a summer lazing by the beach. So zero acclimatization. You can do it if you pace yourself but most guides will force the pace which is where problems arise. We saw a number of guided groups turn around due to "not enough time" - basically the guide wanted to ensure he got the last cable car down to have a good night's sleep. We had no such constraints.


If the weather changes it is a serious route and you can die very quickly if caught high on the mountain. It is not easy to get shelter in the autumn where the conditions are hard ice. I had a GPS with all the refuge locations programmed. People have perished a few hundred meters from safety because they couldn't find the refuge in a storm and lets not forget the tragedy of Vicendon and Henry


 


 


 

The text you are quoting:

I climbed Mont Blanc with 3 friends. Basically we were two experienced climbers although my background is more ski mountaineering with two fit but less experienced people.


Some photos here


We took the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi in the evening then slept at the Cosmiques refuges. We started a bit after 3am with the aim of doing a 2:2:2 pace... via the 3 Monts route. 2 Hour for each section with the aim of arriving between 9-10am. It was very very cold on the first Saturday of September but we had stable weather.


At the summit we decided to descend via the Gouter ridge then try and reach the tramway du Mont Blanc. As this had suffered a landslide it was not coming up to the usual terminus and we were not able to reach it before it shut at 16h30 so we had a long walk back to St Gervais where we had left the car, finally arriving around 8pm. A long day and a long walk in some beautiful scenery.


It was a last minute decision to do the route, my friends had only decided to do the route when they saw very stable anticyclonic weather and I was only brought in to beef up the team on the Wednesday - after a summer lazing by the beach. So zero acclimatization. You can do it if you pace yourself but most guides will force the pace which is where problems arise. We saw a number of guided groups turn around due to "not enough time" - basically the guide wanted to ensure he got the last cable car down to have a good night's sleep. We had no such constraints.


If the weather changes it is a serious route and you can die very quickly if caught high on the mountain. It is not easy to get shelter in the autumn where the conditions are hard ice. I had a GPS with all the refuge locations programmed. People have perished a few hundred meters from safety because they couldn't find the refuge in a storm and lets not forget the tragedy of Vicendon and Henry


 


 


 


David G, Nov 25, 2013 @ 15:06
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 26

I climbed Mont Blanc with 3 friends. Basically we were two experienced climbers although my background is more ski mountaineering with two fit but less experienced people.

Some photos here

We took the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi in the evening then slept at the Cosmiques refuges. We started a bit after 3am with the aim of doing a 2:2:2 pace... via the 3 Monts route. 2 Hour for each section with the aim of arriving between 9-10am. It was very very cold on the first Saturday of September but we had stable weather.

At the summit we decided to descend via the Gouter ridge then try and reach the tramway du Mont Blanc. As this had suffered a landslide it was not coming up to the usual terminus and we were not able to reach it before it shut at 16h30 so we had a long walk back to St Gervais where we had left the car, finally arriving around 8pm. A long day and a long walk in some beautiful scenery.

It was a last minute decision to do the route, my friends had only decided to do the route when they saw very stable anticyclonic weather and I was only brought in to beef up the team on the Wednesday - after a summer lazing by the beach. So zero acclimatization. You can do it if you pace yourself but most guides will force the pace which is where problems arise. We saw a number of guided groups turn around due to "not enough time" - basically the guide wanted to ensure he got the last cable car down to have a good night's sleep. We had no such constraints.

If the weather changes it is a serious route and you can die very quickly if caught high on the mountain. It is not easy to get shelter in the autumn where the conditions are hard ice. I had a GPS with all the refuge locations programmed. People have perished a few hundred meters from safety because they couldn't find the refuge in a storm and lets not forget the tragedy of Vicendon and Henry

 

 

 


Nov 25, 13 15:06

It sounds like you're not as inexperienced as you claim to be or are very wise beginners;-)

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It sounds like you're not as inexperienced as you claim to be or are very wise beginners;-)


Richard H, Nov 25, 2013 @ 15:30
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