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Climbing Mont Blanc
Oct 16, 2008 @ 16:38
I'm thinking of doing this in the spring/summer time with a guide. Has anyone done this? If so what was your experience like?
The text you are quoting:
I'm thinking of doing this in the spring/summer time with a guide. Has anyone done this? If so what was your experience like?
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)
seb23Oct 16, 2008 @ 16:38
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 1
Oct 16, 2008 @ 17:12
[quote]I'm thinking of doing this in the spring/summer time with a guide. Has anyone done this? If so what was your experience like?
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)[/quote]
Hi
First I just want to say that you have chosen on the most exiting activity. Its hard to sum up, but being in the mountains, and one these big mountains, is just awesome. First you will se nature in a whole new way, both the beauty but also how much power and force that nature has. Another thing, you have not experienced the "true" alps before you have seen it from a 4000 meter peak. So, this is just some random thoughts, and maybe you can get something out from it.
So Mont Blanc, depending on the route you are going, but the most technical easiest one is from the french side, using the Goûter hut. The route from here is graded PD, so its not very hard or step, but grading says nothing about the danger and this route is exposed to avalanches and seracs. The "normal" Italien route is more "safer" but much more technical demanding.
So some thoughts about climbing it
1: You have to have good crampon techniques
2: Knowing self arrest, and be confident that the rest of you team know this. You will be tied into a rope and if you are not confident that a rope member can stop a slide it can be a death trap. So you really want to KNOW this people, this is not a hike, you trust these people with your life, literary...
You also have to be confident that saying "I have had enough, I must turn back" You are above 3000 meter and acute mountain sickness is a threat.
3: Make sure that you are fit, this is a long long climb. Actually Mt Blanc is one of the highest climb that is performed in one day, in the other high mountains you use camps. Many people go to fast first, they never reach the summit, power breathing is the trick, on steep, breath, one steep, breath. You will climb over 4000 meter in 24 hours.
4: If you are not familiar with mountaineering, get a guide and get training before setting of.
5: Be acclimatized. At lest stay 1 or 2 times above 3000 meter (sleeping) to build up some extra red blood cells, you really will need them.
When it comes to Mt Blanc, 50% fail getting to the summit, and it more or less boil down that they have failed on any of the 5 topics above.
I dont want to scare anybody away, but Mt Blanc is true mountaineering, dont take it lightly. As my favorite climber said, "Getting to the summit is optional. Getting back down is mandatory".
Remember this is far far from a hike, people die here, this year around 20 people died just in the Mt Blanc massive, 8 died in an avalanche this year going from Goûter to the summit
I would say go with a really good friend, who you really know, get a guide, 3 days of training and then a summit try, then you probably will succeed. There is also a really good pdf file, you will find it at http://www.markseaton.com/montblancadvice.pdf
Mark Seaton is also a really really good mountain guide.
cheers
Anders
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)[/quote]
Hi
First I just want to say that you have chosen on the most exiting activity. Its hard to sum up, but being in the mountains, and one these big mountains, is just awesome. First you will se nature in a whole new way, both the beauty but also how much power and force that nature has. Another thing, you have not experienced the "true" alps before you have seen it from a 4000 meter peak. So, this is just some random thoughts, and maybe you can get something out from it.
So Mont Blanc, depending on the route you are going, but the most technical easiest one is from the french side, using the Goûter hut. The route from here is graded PD, so its not very hard or step, but grading says nothing about the danger and this route is exposed to avalanches and seracs. The "normal" Italien route is more "safer" but much more technical demanding.
So some thoughts about climbing it
1: You have to have good crampon techniques
2: Knowing self arrest, and be confident that the rest of you team know this. You will be tied into a rope and if you are not confident that a rope member can stop a slide it can be a death trap. So you really want to KNOW this people, this is not a hike, you trust these people with your life, literary...
You also have to be confident that saying "I have had enough, I must turn back" You are above 3000 meter and acute mountain sickness is a threat.
3: Make sure that you are fit, this is a long long climb. Actually Mt Blanc is one of the highest climb that is performed in one day, in the other high mountains you use camps. Many people go to fast first, they never reach the summit, power breathing is the trick, on steep, breath, one steep, breath. You will climb over 4000 meter in 24 hours.
4: If you are not familiar with mountaineering, get a guide and get training before setting of.
5: Be acclimatized. At lest stay 1 or 2 times above 3000 meter (sleeping) to build up some extra red blood cells, you really will need them.
When it comes to Mt Blanc, 50% fail getting to the summit, and it more or less boil down that they have failed on any of the 5 topics above.
I dont want to scare anybody away, but Mt Blanc is true mountaineering, dont take it lightly. As my favorite climber said, "Getting to the summit is optional. Getting back down is mandatory".
Remember this is far far from a hike, people die here, this year around 20 people died just in the Mt Blanc massive, 8 died in an avalanche this year going from Goûter to the summit
I would say go with a really good friend, who you really know, get a guide, 3 days of training and then a summit try, then you probably will succeed. There is also a really good pdf file, you will find it at http://www.markseaton.com/montblancadvice.pdf
Mark Seaton is also a really really good mountain guide.
cheers
Anders
The text you are quoting:
[quote]I'm thinking of doing this in the spring/summer time with a guide. Has anyone done this? If so what was your experience like?
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)[/quote]
Hi
First I just want to say that you have chosen on the most exiting activity. Its hard to sum up, but being in the mountains, and one these big mountains, is just awesome. First you will se nature in a whole new way, both the beauty but also how much power and force that nature has. Another thing, you have not experienced the "true" alps before you have seen it from a 4000 meter peak. So, this is just some random thoughts, and maybe you can get something out from it.
So Mont Blanc, depending on the route you are going, but the most technical easiest one is from the french side, using the Goûter hut. The route from here is graded PD, so its not very hard or step, but grading says nothing about the danger and this route is exposed to avalanches and seracs. The "normal" Italien route is more "safer" but much more technical demanding.
So some thoughts about climbing it
1: You have to have good crampon techniques
2: Knowing self arrest, and be confident that the rest of you team know this. You will be tied into a rope and if you are not confident that a rope member can stop a slide it can be a death trap. So you really want to KNOW this people, this is not a hike, you trust these people with your life, literary...
You also have to be confident that saying "I have had enough, I must turn back" You are above 3000 meter and acute mountain sickness is a threat.
3: Make sure that you are fit, this is a long long climb. Actually Mt Blanc is one of the highest climb that is performed in one day, in the other high mountains you use camps. Many people go to fast first, they never reach the summit, power breathing is the trick, on steep, breath, one steep, breath. You will climb over 4000 meter in 24 hours.
4: If you are not familiar with mountaineering, get a guide and get training before setting of.
5: Be acclimatized. At lest stay 1 or 2 times above 3000 meter (sleeping) to build up some extra red blood cells, you really will need them.
When it comes to Mt Blanc, 50% fail getting to the summit, and it more or less boil down that they have failed on any of the 5 topics above.
I dont want to scare anybody away, but Mt Blanc is true mountaineering, dont take it lightly. As my favorite climber said, "Getting to the summit is optional. Getting back down is mandatory".
Remember this is far far from a hike, people die here, this year around 20 people died just in the Mt Blanc massive, 8 died in an avalanche this year going from Goûter to the summit
I would say go with a really good friend, who you really know, get a guide, 3 days of training and then a summit try, then you probably will succeed. There is also a really good pdf file, you will find it at http://www.markseaton.com/montblancadvice.pdf
Mark Seaton is also a really really good mountain guide.
cheers
Anders
sandholm, Oct 16, 2008 @ 17:12
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)[/quote]
Hi
First I just want to say that you have chosen on the most exiting activity. Its hard to sum up, but being in the mountains, and one these big mountains, is just awesome. First you will se nature in a whole new way, both the beauty but also how much power and force that nature has. Another thing, you have not experienced the "true" alps before you have seen it from a 4000 meter peak. So, this is just some random thoughts, and maybe you can get something out from it.
So Mont Blanc, depending on the route you are going, but the most technical easiest one is from the french side, using the Goûter hut. The route from here is graded PD, so its not very hard or step, but grading says nothing about the danger and this route is exposed to avalanches and seracs. The "normal" Italien route is more "safer" but much more technical demanding.
So some thoughts about climbing it
1: You have to have good crampon techniques
2: Knowing self arrest, and be confident that the rest of you team know this. You will be tied into a rope and if you are not confident that a rope member can stop a slide it can be a death trap. So you really want to KNOW this people, this is not a hike, you trust these people with your life, literary...
You also have to be confident that saying "I have had enough, I must turn back" You are above 3000 meter and acute mountain sickness is a threat.
3: Make sure that you are fit, this is a long long climb. Actually Mt Blanc is one of the highest climb that is performed in one day, in the other high mountains you use camps. Many people go to fast first, they never reach the summit, power breathing is the trick, on steep, breath, one steep, breath. You will climb over 4000 meter in 24 hours.
4: If you are not familiar with mountaineering, get a guide and get training before setting of.
5: Be acclimatized. At lest stay 1 or 2 times above 3000 meter (sleeping) to build up some extra red blood cells, you really will need them.
When it comes to Mt Blanc, 50% fail getting to the summit, and it more or less boil down that they have failed on any of the 5 topics above.
I dont want to scare anybody away, but Mt Blanc is true mountaineering, dont take it lightly. As my favorite climber said, "Getting to the summit is optional. Getting back down is mandatory".
Remember this is far far from a hike, people die here, this year around 20 people died just in the Mt Blanc massive, 8 died in an avalanche this year going from Goûter to the summit
I would say go with a really good friend, who you really know, get a guide, 3 days of training and then a summit try, then you probably will succeed. There is also a really good pdf file, you will find it at http://www.markseaton.com/montblancadvice.pdf
Mark Seaton is also a really really good mountain guide.
cheers
Anders
sandholm, Oct 16, 2008 @ 17:12
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 2
Oct 24, 2008 @ 22:42
Hi, my husband has climbed the Mont Blanc, with no guide, but he has friends who have used guides. Here's what he thinks:
I've heard good things about Allibert (http://www.allibert-trekking.com). They have a tour of the "VOIE NORMALE DU MONT-BLANC" that is 3 days long and costs 700 euros. They take you up the normal way. easier technically, but exposed to falling rocks under the Gouter.
I would avoid employing a guide from Chamonix. They are busy in the seaons (summer, not spring, unless you wish to go on skis), they may wish to rush through the climb, and get a bit frantic. Besides the bit of attitude, of course.
I went once up the Gouter side by climbing to the Tete Rousse first, slept there, then to Gouter early in the morning (less rocks falling, less traffic), slept there, and the next day to the Mont Blanc. It is a short stretch from there. Sleeping at Gouter is usually dreadful, too many people packed in the beds, and you'll be plodding along with other 250+ guys (yes, more than 250 per day, it is not a typo). But the combination was the best bet to avoid dangers.
The shortest way is from the Cosmiques. Cable car to Aguille de Midi. descent to the refuge. The next day you climb up, and you then walk down to Gouter. A bit steeper, but more comfortable. You need getting used to the height before you do it. An alternative is to walk up the Mer de Glace from Montenvers, Roquin, to the Cosmiques before the actual climb. Just spectacular, and provides some training.
I find the nicest way from the French side is the one from the Grand Mulet. There is some danger till the Dome de Gouter (seracs), and it is a long climb from the hut to the top. It is OK if you plan an extra day at the hut, and much quieter than other climbs.
You can combine any of the above, i.e. up one way, down the other.
All other climbs require some experience with rock or steeper ice.
Take your time for it, and enjoy the view. Although, in fact, you are too high to have any view :-)
Luca, thanks to Christine
The text you are quoting:
Hi, my husband has climbed the Mont Blanc, with no guide, but he has friends who have used guides. Here's what he thinks:
I've heard good things about Allibert (http://www.allibert-trekking.com). They have a tour of the "VOIE NORMALE DU MONT-BLANC" that is 3 days long and costs 700 euros. They take you up the normal way. easier technically, but exposed to falling rocks under the Gouter.
I would avoid employing a guide from Chamonix. They are busy in the seaons (summer, not spring, unless you wish to go on skis), they may wish to rush through the climb, and get a bit frantic. Besides the bit of attitude, of course.
I went once up the Gouter side by climbing to the Tete Rousse first, slept there, then to Gouter early in the morning (less rocks falling, less traffic), slept there, and the next day to the Mont Blanc. It is a short stretch from there. Sleeping at Gouter is usually dreadful, too many people packed in the beds, and you'll be plodding along with other 250+ guys (yes, more than 250 per day, it is not a typo). But the combination was the best bet to avoid dangers.
The shortest way is from the Cosmiques. Cable car to Aguille de Midi. descent to the refuge. The next day you climb up, and you then walk down to Gouter. A bit steeper, but more comfortable. You need getting used to the height before you do it. An alternative is to walk up the Mer de Glace from Montenvers, Roquin, to the Cosmiques before the actual climb. Just spectacular, and provides some training.
I find the nicest way from the French side is the one from the Grand Mulet. There is some danger till the Dome de Gouter (seracs), and it is a long climb from the hut to the top. It is OK if you plan an extra day at the hut, and much quieter than other climbs.
You can combine any of the above, i.e. up one way, down the other.
All other climbs require some experience with rock or steeper ice.
Take your time for it, and enjoy the view. Although, in fact, you are too high to have any view :-)
Luca, thanks to Christine
Christi, Oct 24, 2008 @ 22:42
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 3
Oct 26, 2008 @ 21:29
[quote]I'm thinking of doing this in the spring/summer time with a guide. Has anyone done this? If so what was your experience like?
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)[/quote]
Hey Seb, don't know if you remember me--we went skiing together in Verbier a while ago.
I've been doing a lot of climbing and a Mont Blanc trip is on the agenda for this year sometime. I've been tagging along with a group of German guys I met at CERN for their mountaineering experience, if you like I can put you in touch.
Cheers
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)[/quote]
Hey Seb, don't know if you remember me--we went skiing together in Verbier a while ago.
I've been doing a lot of climbing and a Mont Blanc trip is on the agenda for this year sometime. I've been tagging along with a group of German guys I met at CERN for their mountaineering experience, if you like I can put you in touch.
Cheers
The text you are quoting:
[quote]I'm thinking of doing this in the spring/summer time with a guide. Has anyone done this? If so what was your experience like?
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)[/quote]
Hey Seb, don't know if you remember me--we went skiing together in Verbier a while ago.
I've been doing a lot of climbing and a Mont Blanc trip is on the agenda for this year sometime. I've been tagging along with a group of German guys I met at CERN for their mountaineering experience, if you like I can put you in touch.
Cheers
devildog2067, Oct 26, 2008 @ 21:29
If other glocals would like to participate in such an activity send me a message :)[/quote]
Hey Seb, don't know if you remember me--we went skiing together in Verbier a while ago.
I've been doing a lot of climbing and a Mont Blanc trip is on the agenda for this year sometime. I've been tagging along with a group of German guys I met at CERN for their mountaineering experience, if you like I can put you in touch.
Cheers
devildog2067, Oct 26, 2008 @ 21:29
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Re: Climbing Mont Blanc
Post 4
Oct 27, 2008 @ 13:08
Thanks for the useful comments...
devildog2067 -how could I forget a night in the bunker, even if I chose a room upgrade:D
The text you are quoting:
Thanks for the useful comments...
devildog2067 -how could I forget a night in the bunker, even if I chose a room upgrade:D
seb23, Oct 27, 2008 @ 13:08
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